Blue Printing Your Clutch
1.Take all the steel plates and line them up and
clamp them together as shown above
Put a line between two teeth. Starting there is the first groove. Not counting that groove count four more grooves and again put a line. Continue to do this all the way around. There should be seven equal spaces.
Using a 1/4" rattail (round) file each one of these seven spots where the seven lines are to the bottom of each groove. Take the clamp off and deburr each of the 1/4" filed slots.
As seen in photo
When installing these plates in the clutch, these slots should go where the bolts go through the clutch. As shown
This last photo shows what the clutch should look like when going back together. Also the tool needed to finish the work.
Here are photos and descriptions describing on how to blueprint your Hodaka clutch for much easier use.
These photos and text were sent to me by someone I
trust but who would like to remain anonymous. I hope this helps you all
as I have been doing this for years with great success . ~Paul
Any further questions please feel free to email me at Paul@StrictlyHodaka.com
Devoted to help solve some of The most frequently asked Hodaka questions
"Roger Lippiat has figured a
simple way to repair those hard to find upper coils. Thank you Roger for
the work and thanks to Ed Chesnut for the photo"
Simple timing setting for bikes with points:
This will work for all Hodaka models that use points.
For photo purposes we used an Ace 100 motor I was working on, but you
will find the same markings on your other models.
First remove your magneto cover so you can view your flywheel/stator assy. (Photo A)
You will find a mark on the outside of your flywheel along with two
marks on your left inside case. The two marks on your left inside case
are located at the 11:00 position and the 12:00 position. Disregard the
mark at the 12:00 position and only work with the 11:00 mark. You can
see the flywheel mark and 11:00 mark highlighted in red by us for easier
viewing purposes. Line up the two marks as seen in the above photo.
Once this is done you will be able to look into the stator assy through
the opening in the flywheel. (
You will need to loosen the screw to the right of the points by only a
1/4 turn max. There is a slotted area that is part of the back of the
points which when fitted with a small flat head screwdriver and turned
slightly will open or close the points depending on which way you turn
it (clockwise or counterclockwise). (
You can see this in the highlighted red area in the photo. You will
need to use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the points. Most
Hodaka models are .012" - .015" gap. I use .013" which works well for
me. Once the gap is set you will need to re-tighten the screw that you
loosened. Sometimes when you go to re-tighten the screw the points will
close on you. If this happens you might try and re-loosen the screw again
set your gap this time to .015" and re-tighten the screw. This may bring
you to the .013" gap once it is tight. When you do tighten the screw be
sure to double check your point gap. Happy Riding!
Wiring Diagrams by Model:
1. 125 Wombat, Wombat Diagram #2
(#2 is the same diagram but Roger Karren removed all the turn signal wiring for those who have a Model 94 to make it less confusing. Thank you, Roger)
2. Ace 100
3. Road Toad
4. Ace 90
5. Super Rat 100
6. 175 SL
7. Wombat 03
8. 250 ED Thunderdog
9. 250 SL
10. Super Combat 125
HT-3 Pipe mounting instructions for Super Combat/Super Rat (98)
First please check
to see that you have all the pieces needed in your box. You should have
the pipe and the stinger. You should have a black metal bracket with
three holes drilled through it. There should be a Yamaha pipe mount
bracket that has two bolts attached to it. There should be four springs,
two Hodaka tank rubber grommets with collars, three 8 mm bolts with
nyloc nuts plus a special washer that has a small hole on one end for a
spring and a 8mm hole on the other end for a screw to go through.
Also included is
the FMF spark arrester/muffler package. You will be using the muffler,
stainless steel bracket
that wraps around the muffler, a stainless steel
clamp to help hold the muffler to the stinger. Be sure all parts are
there before installing please.
Photo 1A Photo 1AA Photo 1AAA
For the Super
Combat and Super Rat (98) using a stock airbox your airbox will need to
be modified. We are included a template that you can easily lay over the
front of your airbox to be marked for modifications.
Step 1- Remove existing pipe on bike and front portion of the airbox from bike. Move your shock mount to the forward position. See Photo
Step 2- Remove the front
portion of your airbox (Hodaka part # 973601) from frame after you have
marked the outside edge of the kicker tube as seen in this
Step 3- Mount the muffler
bracket that is supplied. The far right hole in the bracket lines up
with the upper shock mount hole in the 12 o’clock position . Use one of
the supplied 8mm bolts with nyloc nuts to pin this into place. Leave all
nuts loose until everything is in place and then go back to tighten
This bracket (above) was designed specifically for a Super Combat so the
hole in the bracket to the left of the previous hole will line up
directly with the hole in the gusset of the Super Combat frame.
For the Super Rat (98) and all other models you may need to drill a new
hole in the bracket to align with the hole in the gusset. Use another
8mm bolt and nyloc nut to attach to frame. We are supplying a Hodaka
tank rubber grommet with metal collar to support the bracket at this
The tank rubber grommet and
collar go in the back of the bracket between the bracket and the gusset
of the frame to be used as a spacer.
Step 5- The
farthest hole on the bracket to the left is used to mount the muffler
via the stainless bracket. This hole needs to be widened from 6mm to
10mm. We then use the Hodaka tank rubber grommet and collar placed
inside the metal bracket just like it was used inside the tabs on the
original Hodaka gas tanks.
See Photo Photo #2
Step 6- Slip the pipe into the exhaust manifold and hold to the cylinder using the included exhaust springs.
Step 7- Attach the stinger end of the pipe to the actual pipe by using the included exhaust spring. See Photo
has your pipe roughly laid out so that you can see how it goes. If you
have a Super Combat or super Rat (98) you will need to modify your
airbox and right side numberplate . The following steps with explain
how. If you have any other model other than the Super Combat and Super
Rat you can skip the next few steps and proceed to step 9.
Step 8- Modifying your “Super” airbox for mounting the HT3 pipe. So we have changed the design to better fit in tight to the bike. See Photo #1
You will need to cut a slot into your airbox to allow the pipe to fit through.
Using the mark you
have made on the outside of the kicker tube (step 2) make another mark
starting at the top of the airbox and coming down 24 mm to intersect the
line drawn for outline of the kicker tube (point A).
Make another mark outside the kicker tube again 28mm below point A.
Call this mark point B. The
sheet metal needs to be removed from the airbox now outside of the
kicker tube and between point A and point B. I personally used a dremel
tool with a cutting blade which made it easy. Once this is done extend
this “slot” to the outside upper right corner so to allow the pipe to
slide in place.
This can easily be double checked while your pipe is mounted to the bike and being held in place by the springs. See Photo#2 Once you have enough clearance inside the airbox you can mount it back
to the frame keeping all the bolts slightly loose. Modifying right side
numberplate- Starting from the center of the left mount hole mark a “T”
40mm straight up. The top of the tee at 40mm. Make a horizontal line
using the “T” as a mark.
Make another mark 35mm to the left of the T. Make another mark 45mm to the right of the T.
Once your bottom horizontal
line is drawn mark another line straight upwards on the left side and
right side of the horizontal line. Remove this patch of numberplate
using a saw or dremel tool.
See Photo #3
Step 9- Mount the included rubberized muffler stay to the left side gusset of the frame. See Photo
Use the longer 25mm bolt to go through the mounting hole in the pipe
and s-crew it into the hole in the mounting stay with the welded nut.
Lay the stay alongside the gusset and mark with a punch or marker where
to drill the mounting hole in the gusset (6mm). Use the shorter (16mm)
supplied bolt to adhere the stay to the gusset of the frame.
Step 10- Mounting your FMF muffler. Remove the end cap screw on front of your FMF muffler as seen in the photo. Replace the screw and adhere the included spring holding clip. See Photo
Slide the stainless steel mounting bracket over the muffler. Photo
Slide the stainless steel clamp over the front of the muffler where the
muffler joins the stinger of the pipe. Slide the muffler into the
Attach the last remaining spring to the spring holding clip and to the welded mount at the rear of the stinger. Tighten down the stainless steel hose clamp holding the muffler to the stinger.
Step 11- Go back now and tighten all the hardware. Double check all nuts and bolts that were either removed for mounting or added. See Photo
Step 12- TIT (Taylor’s Idiot Tuning) This was the name given to that little pipe hanging off of your main exhaust pipe. See PhotoThe name was given to this
extension by Harry’s long time friend Mike. What I can tell you is this.
This “tit” has been used by Harry on his exhaust pipes for years. It
had been previously hidden so that the general person could not see it.
Harry has very graciously allowed us to use this design in building the
Hodaka pipes for you. There is a substantial performance gain by
building this and it has been proven over and over again. I am an
absolute believer. For an answer to what this does (how and why) I will
let Harry tell you himself. So for a cheap plug for Hodaka Days come
there and ask Harry for yourselves!
the bike with the HT3 pipe it is suggested and recommended that the 6mm
drain plug be removed from the bottom of the “tit” and allowed to drain
any gas or oils if found. We have never seen this happen but
rather be cautious.
Use it and have fun! If you have been using a HT2 pipe there should
not be any jetting changes
needed. You will find this pipe pulls better
off the bottom, mid-range and top end. It comes on pipe earlier than the
HT2 pipe and stays longer. Being better than the HT2 pipe say’s it all.
We did not think we could build a betterod pipe than the HT2 but the HT3
is definitely better. You have just purchased something that has
hundreds of thought and time but also something that was built and
designed for you the Hodaka rider. Be it a race bike, cross country
bike, trail bike or street legal bike this pipe was designed to fit
these applications and the following models.
Specific models this was designed for: Wombat’s (with modified exhaust flange) ,Combat Wombats with (972513,982513 and
032513) exhaust flange, Super Combat, Super Rat (98), Road Toads with
(972513,982513 and 032513) exhaust flange, Dirt Squirt (01) with
(972513,982513 and 032513) exhaust flange and Wombat (03).
Shift Kit Replacement Instructions